PROVIDENCE — It’s been another year of me eating my way around New England, where I’ve enjoyed savory plates featuring local fare: Steak tartare. Crudo. Curry cakes. Croquettes. Dumplings.

Squiggly noodles cloaked in sweet and savory black bean sauce, glistening beef bulgogi served with sizzled veggies and sticky rice, and a bubbling stew filled with kimchi dumplings, chewy rice ...